• Balconet / Balconnette: If you are looking for a bra with wide-set straps, leaving a little front coverage, the balconette is a good choice. The bra gives the breasts an uplift and fullness. It almost appears if the breasts are being served on a tray!

• Bralet / Bralette: When looking for a comfortable lounge bra, the bralette is an option for smaller bust lines. Bralettes are unlined and wireless, typically designed to be pulled over the head or clasped in the back. There are little support features in these garments; therefore the bralette is often used for relaxing or sleeping in.

• Bust Enhancers: Bras are included in the bust-enhancers category if they create the illusion of a fuller bust line. Enhancers are often built into the bras themselves rather than as the traditional inserts. The Wonderbra was the original bust enhancer.

• Bust Minimizers: Bust minimizers are designed to give the illusion that the breasts are smaller than they really are. They accomplish this through either pushing down the bust line or redistributing the breast weight around the chest. The latter method is more flattering and leaves a woman looking trim.

• Bustier / Corset: Bustiers and corsets are often strapless. They are designed for enhanced support. Expect them to extend down to the waist or hip. Bustiers are worn to produce a distinctive body shape – often the “hourglass” shape. Unlike shapewear, thin metal or plastic boning is built into the piece. Small hooks usually run up either the front or back of the garment.

• Comfort Straps: For the fuller-busted woman, comfort straps are included in some bras to minimize shoulder and back pain caused by excess breast weight. This means bra straps may be lined, softly padded, or built wider than a standard bra strap. Keep in mind that the right fit will often eliminate the need for these kinds of extras.

• Contour Bras: When a bra is designed with foam-fit lining or fiberfill used to provide definition and shape, we call it a contour bra. Because of the lining, the bra prevents nipples from showing through. It is a common misconception that contour bras increase the size of the breasts, when really all they do is reshape the breast into a rounder, symmetrical bust line. The rest is illusion – but a pleasant one!

• Convertible (backless/halter) Bras: Some bras are designed to have the straps removed or worn in different patterns on the back depending on the style of clothing. These bras are a great addition to your wardrobe, as they can be customized to go with various outfits. When referred to as being backless, often this means that the straps on the back fit much lower than a standard bra, leaving the appearance that the bra is backless. If you are looking for a completely backless style, try self-adhesive bras.

• Demi Cup: This is a popular style of bra, as it is partially cut away so that the top of the breast is exposed. The style is referred to as “demi”, meaning half. The demi-cup bra is perfect for low cup tops or squared necklines, as it is cut below the outline of the clothing. This style of coverage is more than the balconette and less than the full cup.

• Front Closure: A bra that fastens in the front between the cups is known as a front closure bra. This style makes it easier for woman to put on and take off their bras. There are no adjustment options similar to a back closure bra that will usually include three sets of hooks. This bra style also can confuse an amorous suitor!

• Full Coverage / Full Cup: This style of bra covers the majority of the breast. The top of the bra cup will cover much higher than a demi-cup. Full coverage bras work well under T-shirts, as they prevent the breast being cut in half by lines created by a balconette or demi cup.

• Full Figure: Full figure bras are especially designed for women who are more voluptuous than average. Cups and band sizes are available in a larger range to accommodate even the most curvaceous.

• Molded / Seamless: These styles, like the full coverage style, are perfect for wearing T-shirts and other tight fitting clothing. A flat piece of fabric is heat molded to form a cup shape so there is little fabric and padding covering the breasts; yet, the breasts will have a smooth, enhanced shape. Most molded seamless bras are made of a stretch material, which may not work well for fuller-figured women.

• Padded: Bras that contain padding in the breast leave bust lines looking fuller. Popular today is a graduated padding, which is thicker at the cup base and becomes thinner as it approaches the top of the bra. If you are looking for even more boost to your bust line, padded bras include what are known as “cookies”, or small inserts that can be removed as needed.

• Plunge: When bras include very low front cup angles and tiny center gores (where the cups meet), they are known as plunge bras. These styles are perfect for deep V-neckline tops and dresses. The bras also often include padding or lining which work to create increased center cleavage.

• Push-Up: Push-up bras are designed to leave the illusion of a fuller bust line. Often an underwire will enhance the breasts by lifting them up. Padding or arched cups also work to create cleavage in the center of the breasts.

• Racerback: The back straps of a racerback bra are designed to leave the shoulders and shoulder blades exposed. These bras are extremely popular in the summer under tank tops and in some sports bras. Often front closure bras have racerback style straps. Many convertible bras also have racerback options built in. These bras are specifically great for women with small shoulders.

• Seamed: Bras made of many pieces of fabric that are carefully cut and sewn together to create a cup shape are known as seamed or cut-and-sewn bras. The more seams and pieces of fabric used to construct the bra, the more support and precise fitting will be offered. Often these bras are finished off with lace and fine detailed embroidery. While these bras have fallen out of fashion, don’t count them out. They provide the best fit for many larger-busted women.

• Soft Cup / Wireless: When going for a relaxed comfortable feel, the soft cup offered women a wireless option bra. These bras offer very light support and are more popular among women with small and firm bust lines. They are wirefree and come in all shapes and sizes.

• Sports / Athletic: Sports bras protect the chest from tissue damage while you are exercising. Compression (extensive stretch materials) styles are recommended for women who have smaller breasts, while women with larger breast should stick to styles which cup each breast individually and prevent excess bouncing.

• Strapless / Bandeau: Bras that do not come with shoulder straps are known as strapless bras. They tend to come with rubber strips which line the inside edges of the bra so that it grips the body and remains in place. Strapless options come in many styles including padded, push-up, seamless or underwire. A bandeau is strapless as well, and often looks like a rectangular compression tube.

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On each bra you’ll find a band size written as a number (ie. 32, 34, 36) and a cup size written as a letter (A, B, C, etc.). Band size is generally easier to fit, while getting the cup size right can be more difficult. In fact, cup size may vary according to each brand, style and female body.

That doesn’t mean you can’t get the right bra for you. It does mean you might have to experiment a bit with garments when you get to the store. (For those of us who enjoy retail therapy, this should not be a hardship.)

The BraWise approach to getting your correct bra size depends initially on your ability with a measuring tape. This is the simplest way to start. Getting the best measurements possible means you get the best result possible. With this in mind, we suggest you start with your best-fitting unpadded bra. You want to choose a bra that doesn’t minimize or enhance your breasts in order to ensure that your measurements reflect the “real” you. It is also helpful if you take these measurements with another person, who can help with placement of the measuring tape.

1. Band Size: When taking this measurement, be sure to wear your best-fitting (unpadded or “enhanced”) bra. Place a measuring tape around your rib cage directly below your bust. The tape should be flat on the band and parallel to the floor. Round the number to the closest whole inch for your band size. If the result is an even number, for example 34”, add four inches – leaving you with a size of 38”. If the number is odd, for example 31”, add five inches – leaving you with a size of 36”. This final number represents your band size.

2. Cup Size: As you stand with your arms at your sides, place the measuring tape around your body at the fullest part of your breasts. Take this number and round it up or down to the closest inch, for example 36”. Now, take this number, and subtract the number you figured in Step 1 (band size). The difference in the inch size is your cup size according to the inch value. For example, if your cup measurement is 36” and your band size was 34”, subtract the second from the first, leaving you with 2” which, according to the chart below, is a B cup.

And there you have it! You now have the basics in bra fitting. Check out Common Bra-Fitting Problems for more custom fitting instructions. Use these tips to evaluate how your selected bra size is working for you. After all, the results you get from using a measuring tape may not be the final word in the dressing room.

The fitting of a bra is as much art as science. If you have any questions, do not hesitate to consult a professional bra fitter for more help or drop us a question at BraWise.

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Most women will have an ill-fitting bra at some point in their lives. We’ve all been there with an unexpected weight gain or loss, or the joys (and body changes) of pregnancy and nursing. You might have bought the right bra only 6 months to a year ago, and find you have the wrong bra now.

So how do you keep from being one of the 80 per cent or so who wear the wrong-sized bra? Pay attention to the fit of your items! The fit alone can give you important clues to your correct size.

Here are the most common fit problems and how to fix them for your next purchase.

1. Bra band rides up in back

Based on an informal survey in my local mall, this problem is number one. If this is happening to you, the band is either too loose or the cups are too small, or both. The solution is going up a cup size or down a band size. In many cases, it could be a combination of both. Keep in mind that women with larger busts need wider, closer-fitting bands to support the weight of the breasts.

2. Straps won’t stay on shoulders for more than a short time

Your straps are either too loose or set too far apart for more narrow or sloping shoulders. In all likelihood, you can fix this by adjusting the straps. However, keep in mind that if you then end up with your bra band riding up in the back, you’ll have to consider going up a cup size or down a band size to fix the real problem!

If your straps are an ongoing adjustment issue, consider stitching the straps to stay in place. Another trick for future purchases can be to choose styles that place the straps closer together in the back, such as racerback bras. 

3. Straps dig into shoulders

If this happens, your straps are doing too much of the work! The same fix applies here as applies to our number one problem: you likely have a loose band or need a larger cup. Consider styles that have both a wider band on the body as well as padded straps (if you can’t seem to get less pressure on the straps while also having a comfortable band).

4. You are spilling out of the cup of your bra

This one is pretty simple. If you look like you have 4 breasts instead of 2, it’s time to go up a cup size.

5. Your cups have “dimples”

If your cups dimple, it’s time to go down a cup size. Remember that going up and down are common over the course of your lifetime, especially with weight gain and loss.

6. You’ve got “back fat”

If you have the dreaded back fat, you probably think your bra is too tight. You’re wrong – your bra is actually too big! You need to go down a band size (or more) until you can wear your bra lower on your back and have the band stay level. This will generally eliminate or reduce any appearance of back fat.

7. Your straps are falling down

If your strap falls down but the bra otherwise appears to fit, that means your bra band is riding up in the back. You should go down a band size.

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Among your collection you should own a few specialty bras in particular:

• A nude colored bra or two that will virtually disappear under white or light clothing.
• Something seamless for silky fabrics or thin clothing where bra seams would normally show through.

Many single women wear their nicest bras only when they are going out on dates. We’ll even buy new bras especially for the occasion. But you know what happens – when we put that extra effort into preparing for a special date, nothing ends up happening. However, on those days when we throw on boring, old or unwashed bras … that’s when things progress romantically!

The truth is, wearing your most breathtaking bras should not depend on the hopes that someone may see them. Pretty colors and gorgeous fabrics should be a part of your regular bra rotation schedule.

The key here is that everyday you should wear something you are proud to be seen in! Lingerie should be worn, not thrown into the back of the drawer for special occasions only.

The Lingerie Fabric Guide

To help you understand the fabrics of your lingerie items, here’s a quick summary of each.

• Cotton: Cotton is a soft white vegetable fiber from the cotton plant and consisting mainly of cellulose. Cotton comes in many forms and is extremely comfortable, absorbent, durable and machine washable. It does, however, shrink easily. When buying panties, always make sure the crotch is cotton-lined.

• Spandex: Spandex consists of man-made fibers usually of polyurethane. Pieces in your collection will be elastic, strong and shaping. Spandex provides a light stretch with flexibility in garments. It is often blended with other materials to create an overall look. Lycra is a trademarked type of spandex.

• Silk: Silk is obtained from the cocoon of the silkworm. The material is lightweight and luxurious against the body. Colors are accepted well by silk, therefore it can be found in an exceptionally large range of colors and patterns.

• Silk Knit: Silk knit is made of silk, but is woven so that it stretches and clings to the body. Silk knit is soft, drapes and is surprisingly warm on the body. It provides warmth without the bulk.

• Satin: Satin is either (1) smooth, lustrous and made of silk, or (2) a type of weave made of other fibers such as rayon or polyester. Satin feels sensual and soft on the skin. It has a glossy and rich finish.

• Rayon: Rayon is constructed of man-made fibers created from certain cotton fibers or wood chips. In French, rayon translates to “ray of light” due to its reflective look.  Rayon looks like fake silk and is often used in less expensive lingerie. It often shrinks and has bad wrinkle recovery.

• Polyester: Polyester is man-made from acids and alcohols that come from petroleum. It is very popular in lingerie because it is strong, shape-retaining, easy to care for and dries quickly. It is often combined with spandex in higher quality garments.

• Nylon: Nylon was the first man-made fabric ever created. It is made of long chains of chemicals called polyamides. Fabrics feel light like silk, but are stronger, retain shape longer, resist creasing, are mildew resistant and can be washed easily – unlike silk.

• Microfiber: Microfiber is created from manufactured filament fibers that are spun so thin one can barely feel the fabric grain. The fabric is durable, silky, thin and lightweight. Garments worn under clothing made of mircofiber are almost invisible.

• Georgette: Silk or polyester yarns, which are woven both lengthwise and crosswise, are known as georgette. It is usually sheer but is available in opaque.

• Elastic: Elastic is a stretchable fiber, tape or yarn made from synthetic or natural rubber. Elastic is usually found under another type of fabric in most lingerie, allowing garments to “give”. Items made of elastic should be air-dried.

• Chiffon: Chiffon is a sheer fabric composed of highly twisted crepe yarns. It was originally made of silk, but is now available in other fibers. It is delicate and drapes against the body.

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We can all be creatures of habit, especially with our bras. Without ever realizing what mistakes we make, we continue purchasing our bras and lingerie the same way – the wrong way. Here are six common mistakes that you can easily avoid.

• We buy the same style bra, over and over.

Let’s face it: most of us don’t like change. So, one of the most common mistakes is that we always buy the same style and brand of bra. For instance, once seamless bras came into fashion, many of us began to buy them every time. It is important to try seamed bras as well. A seamed bra will give better lift to your breasts, as well as provide a narrower silhouette that flatters certain styles of clothing. In addition, many expert bra fitters will tell you that seamless bras do not provide enough support to be worn every day. So consider other styles and brands of bras, both for support as well as fashion!

• We buy low-quality sports bras.

This is a huge mistake. Whether running through aisles of the grocery store or going on an active jog, we need to have the right support. A quality sports bra with good support for motion in all directions will ensure that your breasts will not become sore. Also, the bra itself should be comfortable once you are in it, even if it is challenging to get on. Consider a sports bra with shape and seams; ideally, each breast should be supported separately. While many women prefer a full compression bra, these should not be worn on an ongoing basis, as some experts believe that the functioning of the lymph glands may be affected.

• We self-fit into bras too small.

This is another common bra-shopping mishap. Frankly, we try to squeeze ourselves into bras that are too small for us. We choose a cup and band size once, and don’t bother ever checking it or changing it again. We are left with breasts that fold over the top of the cup, making it appear as if we have four small breasts! Make sure you’re buying bras that fit you properly. Many quality department stores or lingerie specialists will do a bra fitting for you.

• We don’t compensate for weight loss or weight gain.

We can and do change size over time. In some cases, we gain and lose weight, yet we continue to wear the same size bras in the same styles. Again, this is an easy mistake to correct with a simple bra fitting. A bra fitter can also suggest the most flattering styles of bra. Different styles are built for different breasts, each shaping and fitting in their own unique ways. It is vital that we change both our bra styles and sizes as we lose and gain weight.

• When we have large breasts, we choose minimizer bras every day.

Minimizer bras should we worn sparingly. They compress breast tissue that can contribute to loss of breast firmness over time. No woman wants premature sagging! We also want to ensure that we have the most youthful silhouette possible. To achieve this, we need to be fitted into bras that will lift and center our bust lines midway between the shoulder and the elbow. If your bras are correctly fitted, not only will the breasts look smaller and shapelier, many believe it will also help to retain as much firmness as possible.

• We believe all underwire bras are uncomfortable.

Are you one of those women who gets home and ditches the bra as soon as possible? In some cases even mature women will choose bralettes to maintain a soft, comfortable bustline throughout the day. The problem is that bralettes leave us with no shape or definition. They are built with the purpose of lounging. Which brings us to underwire bras: these bras are only uncomfortable if they are fit incorrectly. The wire should be resting against the ribcage in the soft cover, without biting into flesh either at the side or under the breast. Wearing a well-fitted underwire bra should keep you feeling comfortable and lifted all day.

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